So, that was a crazy bus ride yesterday getting to Pathankot from Amritsar. Definitely more interesting than what I had imagined- two hours of watching tractors and wheat fields against a backdrop of a golden, setting sun.

Okay, that doesn’t sound too bad, I wouldn’t have minded that.

At least the hotel was at a walking distance from the bus stop, so that was good. Hotel Green. Odd name but a great pick, yeah! I should thank Uma for recommending the place. Especially because the food in their restaurant is so good! Cheese naan for dinner, yes please!

But gobi kasoori on the side? Gobi in cashew gravy to go with cheese? Rich. But bad combo!

Come on, how could I have known?

Hey, the waiter did warn that the gravy is NOT spicy.

Hmm, that’s true. Dinner there today also, at ‘Basil-n-thyme’? The menu said it’s a family-run establishment, and the head chef is the hotel owner’s son. Professional chef, fancy menu, classy ambience… sound good?

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But it’s not even dinnertime yet. It’s barely past six! I should check out the neighborhood, take a walk. Okay, but head where? Hmm.. Zomato says… nothing. Okay. I should be able to find Jammu and Himachali food here because it’s so close… let’s see…Google…”Himachali food in Pathankot”… ok, that’s a list… ratings… mm.. Okay, Chamba Dhaba… Looks close enough.

Alright, grab a coat. Late winter in Punjab… I love this climate!

Okay… Let’s see what life in Pathankot looks like. Google Maps… So… fifteen minutes down Railway Road… left from the hotel and no turns after.. Let’s go… This is so like Kanpur, man… the narrow roads, small shops, men in leather jackets on scooters and aunties with their dupattas pinned over the sweater.

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Gosh, that’s a lot of street-side stalls selling camouflage-patterned clothes.. Okay, not Kanpur… We are way out here close to international borders. Remember that news a couple of years about those terror… Wait a second, is that a…

Yes it is! It’s a frikkin’ gun store! With actual guns in there!

Wow, that’s the first gun store I have seen in my life! I’ve got to take a picture of this!

Okay, that was super cool! Oh hey, the moon is out. Oh, and that’s Gandhi. I mean, a Gandhi statue. Where on earth is this Chamba dhaba?

Open Maps… Oh yeah, makes sense, Maps says I’m in Gandhi chowk. Okay, five minutes ahead…

That? That is the ‘famous’ Himachali dhaba I had researched out?

Er… Well, this is the map location and the only other thing at this corner is a bookshop. Look, it’s got a sign that says, Chamba. Appearances can be deceptive, worth a shot?

It’s too late to search out anything else now. Let’s try our luck here…

This looks… dilapidated? No, this is under renovation. This must be the right place. That’s a billing counter, let’s head.. Oh, he wants me to go upstairs. Okay… There are four tables here..

Dude, there is literally no other customer here but me!

Yes, I know, so I will sit here facing the stairs so I can’t be caught by surprise…Should I leave? No, this waiter kid looks harmless… Is this THE famous Chamba dhaba? He’s new, he has no clue what I am talking about. But oh, he’s from Himachal so he can bring me what’s authentic Himachali food! Dal made of black urad? Never had that, yes I’ll have that. But it’s not available? Butter roti and dal tadka? Okay. Thank you. Plain and simple, I guess that’s safe even if the kitchen in this place is a mess.

Look, down there! A family has come to dine! I’m not alone!!! This place has customers. Oh and that was fast. Yum, the meal is perfect for the weather.

Alrighty. Head back to the room? Let’s take the long way back. Narrow gully. Uh-oh, too narrow. This is crowded. But fresh vegetables! Red carrots without scrawny tails, gobi without black spots… Oh, I wish I could just pick a bunch of saag, go home and cook it! Sigh… Okay, pretty oranges, these I can buy.

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It’s nearly eight. I should get to my room soon.

Yes, I should. And I am nearly there.

To my right! Banarsi di hatti. Isn’t this the place to get sweets from? Birthplace of Pathankot’s PGT?

Yes, PGT aka Palang Tod. Okay, quick stop. Pick up a box of the halwa with the secret recipe, go to the billing counter… Next to the chaat counter? He ha ha ha.

No… no no no! I’m getting late!

This won’t take long. Anyway, the billing queue looks long. “Bhaiyya, ek dahi papdi chaat?” Aur kuch? Mmm.. “Aur ek gajar ka halwa.” Oh come on, it’s a winter essential! See, and so worth it! Mmm…

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What a curious name, no? PGT. Supposedly, the cook who created the dark-coloured halwa originally in a sweet shop in Lahore, quit and joined Banarsilal’s shop just before the Partition. And a Brigadier who was a regular at Banarsilal’s shop in Pathankot decided it needed a powerful name to match up to its mighty flavour. And nick-named it ‘Palang Tod halwa’. Palang tod means ‘Bed-breaking’. Dubious much?

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And how does that abbreviate to PGT?

Hey, I don’t know everything! Done with gajar ka halwa and billing?

Yup, and out into the cool night back to Hotel Green. Oh, the railway station appears to be right up ahead! Hey, that means I have a few extra hours in the morning for sightseeing before the train at 4 pm.

Let’s ask this friendly-looking grand old Sardar at the reception desk… He’s the hotel owner, some respect?… for sightseeing suggestions… And maybe some help with the transport as well?

Awesome! Let’s call it a day then! Key into room, kick off shoes, into the covers!

And a good night’s rest before setting off on another adventure!